Glaciers, Waterfalls and so much GREEN!!!!

Bodie.  The amazing travelin' dog

Williwaw Forest Service Campground

Chugach National Forest, Chugach Mountains

Portage, Alaska
Seward Highway

Overheard in Palmer - "You know you're a redneck when you use the O in the STOP sign to sight your rifle scope."  Really all the signs seem to be shot up.  I asked a lady about this and she replied, "the winters are long honey."

All along the Seward Highway into the Kenai Peninsula are Forest Service campgrounds, part of the Chugach National Forest.  Don’t worry about reservations (get that California mentality of our your mind) and each site is stunning.  Waterfalls are abundant and line the mountain sides on both sides of the highway.  So green and so much water.  Oh is it ever going to be a shock coming home in August to dry and very brown foothills. 

Boy sometimes we are pretty lucky people. Today was that day.  This campground rocks! Never have we been in such an amazing campground that is solely FS!  From our site you can see waterfalls, the Middle Glacier (one of 6 glaciers in the Portage Valley.  We hiked all around the Trail of Blue Ice yesterday and this morning before leaving for Soldatna, we hiked to the base of the Byron Glacier.  Pretty cool.  

All along the Seward Highway and turning west on the Sterling Highway into the Kenai Peninsula are Forest Service campgrounds, part of the Chugach National Forest.  Don’t worry about reservations (get that California mentality of our your mind) and each site is stunning.  Waterfalls are abundant and line the mountain sides on both sides of the highway.  So green and so much water.  Oh is it ever going to be a shock coming home in August to dry and very brown foothills.

Byron Glacier

We are settled in at Soldatna.  Fishing nirvana right here along the Kenai River.  Quite a pretty drive in seeing all the fly fishermen standing alongside and in the river fishing Salmon.  The campground we are at is nice enough for being right in Soldatna.  It will do for our fishing adventures while we are here.  J and B put up their cocktail tent "mosquito tent" and we have a 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle ready to go!  We'll see how we do on that.  Don't need any lights since it never gets dark.  

Portage Glacier- we took the 1 hour cruise to get close up to this big guy

Good example of how blue the ice is

Kevin showing his "avalanche" stance

Portage Valley - so many Glaciers

Housekeeping

Wasilla/Palmer area (outside of Anchorage)
June 25, 2016

Staying in an interesting place between Palmer and Wasilla (Sarah Palin's hometown!).  Nothing to write home about, actually more of a culture shock.  So many people and cars and shops and a real city!  We are NOT used to this but have to do some "housekeeping".  Have been on the road now for over 5000 miles.  Laundry, groceries, oil change, just a general "clean up" is needed for a couple of days before we head off to the Kenai peninsula for 10 days.

From Denali we stopped at Talkeetna.  Little, charming town with both touristy vibe and local Alaska vibe.

most of us going into Talkeetna

This is the take-off spot for all the climbers hoping to summit Denali.  They fly in on ski type planes and land at base camp at 7200 ft.  Lots of action with the planes, climbers and all their gear. This year 1100 permits were given out for climbers, 50% have made it so far and the season is almost over.  Good Luck to them.

So we are not so excited about this “city” living.  They do have quite the scenic backdrop from Wasilla/Palmer area.  This stop did what we needed…major “housekeeping.”  Now we are off to the Chugach Mountains and the Glaciated Area of the Kenai Peninsula.  Looking forward to less people again and lots of hiking, hopefully without too many bear issues?  

We have our Salmon Charter reserved out of Soldotna and Halibut charter set up for Homer.  Pretty excited about having lots of good fish sent home.  

Seward Highway out of Anchorage to the Kenai Peninsula!

National Scenic Highway - that’s an understatement

As we left Anchorage we left that part of Alaska behind us.  Back to the Alaska we have grown to love - the wild frontier with endless scenery and wildlife beyond belief.  The Seward Highway begins as soon as you leave Anchorage and go South to the Kenai. Really epic drive with wall of waterfalls, glaciers, large mountains and water.  The Alaska train runs parallel to the highway (my next bucket list - take the Alaska Train).

Our first stop was in Girdwood.  This is the ski resort for Alaska and where most people come from Anchorage to get away.  It is a beautiful, beautiful ski area and summer resort.  We ate at The Bake Shop, located at the base of Chair 3. Yummy.   

Now we are heading into the Chugach National Forest to the Portage Glacier Valley.  I found a FS campground that sounds amazing and boy is it!  Greatest FS campground we have ever stayed at.  Actually, the Churgach Forest is all that too.  The Visitor Center alone is up to par with most National Parks Visitor Centers.  Our campground sits at the base of a glaciated valley.  The Portage Glacier being the biggest of the 6 glaciers around us.  From our campsite we can see Middle Glacier.  There is a beautiful hiking trail, Trail of Blue Ice, that travels all around the outside of this valley.  We hiked with Bodie for a few hours today, went to the Visitor Center and took the 1 hour Glacier cruise up close to the Portage Glacier.  Was really cool.  Rainy, cloudy and cool day, but still great photo’s.  I will be sad to leave this campground (again, no need for reservations….just pull right in and choose your spot! and all for $18!) FYI - If I were in the FS, I would request this FOREST for sure - 2x’s the size of the Los Padres.

The MOUNTAIN

Denali National Park 

June 20 - June 24, 2016

The Great One

(group meet up!  Yay.  Love that we are all so independent with our itineraries, but also love seeing everyone together for a few nights - plus, we have excellent Cocktail parties!) Thanks to Nancy Murphy in her diligence to get these reservations last December. :)

Denali - The Great One (the true old Athabaskan Indian name)  Tallest mountain in North America standing at 20,310 ft.  President Obama just signed the bill changing the name from Mt. McKinley to Denali.

The locals refer to Denali as ‘the mountain,’ or the ‘high one.’ It is not uncommon to hear one of the park employees asking us if we have got the chance to see the mountain.  Denali makes it’s own weather. We shall see.

Polychrome mountain

Unfortunately, and as happens most of the time, the weather is not allowing us to see the mountain.  We believe we saw it as we were driving on the Top of the World highway from 100’s of miles away, but not inside the park, yet. We are hoping for a weather change soon.  

View from our campsite

Bedroom window!

Staying in Savage Campground. Lots of Bear activity.  You need to take your bear spray with you at all times, even to go to the restrooms.  Walking the dog is a bit nerve racking.  There was a Bull Moose near our campsite yesterday.  Moose can be extremely troublesome because of their kick.  Stay away from them for sure. 

Wednesday, June 22- my day for the bus.

School buses are the only mode of travel within the park, actually you can personally only drive to Savage River which is mile 14.7.  Beyond that the remaining 70 some miles of gravel road are only accessible ONLY by the BUS. 

These bus tours must be booked well in advance, but I would HIGHLY recommend it.  You won’t be bored and to really see the animals and the mountain, this is the way to go. The bus stops to pick up backpackers and researchers and anyone else that finds themselves out in the middle of nowhere!  After Savage River you begin to climb and after about 4 hours of driving and seeing all kinds of amazing wildlife you reach the Tundra and the majestic view of the mountain. I can’t believe that I was never once bored on this day trip.  We saw Dall sheep, lots of them, many rams and ewes with their babes.  Hundreds of Caribou, some cow moose with their babies, 2 great BIG Bull Moose and 4 Grizzly bears - one was a Mama with 2 cubs.  It was spectacular.  A day I will never forget.

Around 9:30 that evening we had a knock on our trailer from the Ranger that a Grizzly had threatened a backpacker not far from our campground.  Bummer. She did all the wrong things and threw down her backpack and that’s that.  Now the bear has had the scent of human food and we are all on alert.  They have closed all the trails leading from our campsite and the road.  They need to find the bear and the back pack.  Everyone visiting Denali does get to watch a quick movie on how to respond and what to do with various types of moose, wolf and primarily bear encounters.  Easier said than done, I’m sure.  Playing dead with your backpack covering your neck and head doesn’t sound pleasant.  So here we are AGAIN….in a National Park with a bear incident.  (Glacier, Yellowstone and now this????  I have bad Bear Karma) 

Thursday, June 23 - Kevin’s day for the bus.

This is our last full day in Denali National Park we have been lucky to have a weather shift and WE SEE THE MOUNTAIN!!!  It’s spectacular.  Definitely can see why this is the symbol of Alaska.  It towers over the Alaska Range, which in itself, is pretty impressive with many peaks rising about 18,000 ft.  

Well, Lucky Kevin.....he got to see the mountain from the best spot in the park, and if any of you know how many photographs Kevin takes, you will know that he came back pretty empty handed. Well one or two!  He was fortunate to also see all of the BIG 4 in Denali - Dall Sheep, Moose, Caribou and 7 Grizzlies.  He came back with lots of good stories as his bus driver was super cool.  

Bull Moose

Dahl Sheep

More drama around our Grizzly incident in our campground.   We are staying at Savage (1 of 3 campgrounds in the park).  A small, rather remote campground.  We chose that for that reason.  The backpacker that was charged and ultimately threw his backpack at the bear (???) had coke, cigarettes and snickers in the pack.  So now we have a grizzly that is addicted to caffeine and sugar.  Great.  Closed all the trails in this end of the park as they look for the bear.  Second incident (maybe same Bear?) occurred just later that same day as a Grizz attacked a Mamma Moose and killed her but NOT her calf.  The park is hopeful that the calf will be adopted by another Momma Moose.  so sad.

backpacker

CLOSED!

Jeanette in the Tundra 

So now I really believe that I have some bad karma with Grizzly Bears.  First Yellowstone, then Glacier and now Denali.  What the heck?  This incident even made the national news???  Oh well, we had a wonderful 4 days in the park and would go back again....just not too much hiking. :)

  

Rivers and glaciers wind through these beautiful mountains all around you in this valley

Mat-Su Valley (Matsuka Valley)

Trapper Creek, Alaska

100 miles from Denali National Park

June 19, 2016

Driving on the Glenn Highway to Palmer AK…now this is a must highway to drive while in Alaska.  On our way to Denali.

Talkeetna Glacier

 The road is now paved and not too many frost heaves.  You can tell this is a popular visitor spot for airplane tours, rafting, canoeing, fishing, ziplines, glacier climbs and hiking.  The Black Spruce still have the “drunken forest” look ( roots hit thermafrost and trees get all bent up).  The highway is lined with lovely wildflowers, again a reminder that Spring is just here in middle of June.  The weather is changing and the forecast for Denali is 3 days of rain :( Glad I was able to get my beautiful picture of Denali as we were traveling on the Top of the World.

This was a day of Glaciers.  The Tallinn, Matanuska, Talkeetna and the Nelchine.  Say that fast three times.  Lots of very nice homes sprawled along the glacier ice fields and various lakes and rivers. During the Depression, Pres. Roosevelt colonized this region with farmers from the Midwestern States, bringing hundreds of farming families into the Mat-Su Valley.  They were given 40 acres of land. You can still see many of the old barns, called the Colony Barns. Pretty cool sight.  One of the exciting things you can do here is “Canoe/cabins.”  You take your sleeping bag and pad, get into your canoe and go for 14 days staying in backcountry cabins with rustic bed frames and woodturning stoves.  Sounds like something we would like.  

Did a quick visit and tour to the Musk-Ox farm.  Bought some quviut that I hope to knit up into a very nice cowl or something like that?  The quviut is collected by combing these 600 lb shaggy Ice Age survivors ONCE a year in the spring.  It is the underwool of the musk-oxen. 8 times warmer than wool and can be washed in any temperature of water!  Bit expensive because this wool is in rather short supply and somewhat difficult to recover!!

Arrived in Palmer, AK with a bit of a culture shock.  Lots of people, normal highways, fast food places….but definitely ALASKA all the way.  Dirty trucks, canoes, boats, and ATV’s.  Left Palmer quickly after getting fuel, groceries and liquor for our 4 day stay in Denali.  

Bog Dog! (Bodie loved the bogs)

Stayed in Trappers Creek for the night before we head out for a short drive into Denali.  Had to make these reservations 6 months in advance (sort of like our Yosemite ordeals).  The weather should change near the end of our 4 days here.  Let’s hope.  

WELCOME to our BIGGEST NATIONAL PARK! Wrangell-St. Elias

Mile 7.2 on the Edgerton Highway, near Chitina

Copper River, Kennicott, McCarthy Road????? (OH MY?)

June 16 - June 18, 2016

So after making it off the Top of the World Highway our goal for the next 4 days was to get into Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.  We stayed outside of Tok at a very nice, and our 1st, Alaska State Park.  We were one of 4 people in the ENTIRE park.  Nice sites, bad mosquitos.  ick.

 First stop was at the Visitor Center for the Park, located at Copper Center.  I’m beginning to understand the size of this National Park.  Bigger than Switzerland, 5 times the size of Yellowstone, and 9 of the highest mountains in North America (highest is Denali, which we will see in less than a week!!)  There are 2 roads in to the Park, we are entering via the McCarthy Road.  Apparently, this is going to be an adventure in itself.  We are dropping the airstream in Kenny Lake at a very nice campground.  There are 7 sites all nestled within the forest.  Living off the grid with our solar is working well.  We will take the truck with at least 2 spare tires for the trip.  This road is a 60 mile long gravel road - a journey into the backroads of the frontier wilderness of Alaska.  The road follows an old railroad bed.  The 60 miles will take 3 hours as the fastest one can travel is 35 mph.  Chances of having a flat are high as there are old railroad spikes laying around.  At the end of the McCarthy Road we park and take a footbridge across the Copper River into McCarthy (1 mile walk) and then walk to Kennecott (5 mile walk) from there we will attempt the 2 miles up to the Root Glacier. Kennecott is the sight of the old Railroad depot where travelers would arrive to mine for copper. It is also a Historical Landmark with many of the old buildings still standing. Bodie gets to come along!  Leashed and ready with Bear Spray we are up for this.  I think???  As I was doing laundry, an old local came up and gave me the BETTER BE PREPARED speech and there are other ways to see the park, etc, etc.  Oh he doesn’t know us very well.  

So tomorrow morning off we go into the wild Wrangell - St. Elias National Park.  Very few visitors get to see this big beauty.  We feel very lucky and hoping the weather will continue to cooperate as the views have been super special as we have traveled into this valley.  

June 18, 2016
"Two Roads diverged in a yellow wood, and sorry I could not travel both and be one traveler, long I stood.....and took the McCarthy Road!"  (well, some of Robert Frost and some of Me)

hmmmmmm????

What an absolutely great day we had.  The sign wasn't a good start???? But, we decided it was either flying in, taking a shuttle or just going for it.  We went for it.  Had our spare tires and our radios to communicate with each other. Everything was more than we expected! Before getting to the start of the road, we crossed the bridge and was able to see all the Inuits with their dip nets and fishing wheels (they are the only ones allowed to do this).

 The McCarthy road was crazy, took 2 hours to travel the road, but was stunning scenery and stopped lots to take pics (that was not included in the 2 hours of driving the 30 miles on the McCarthy).  We crossed a crazy wooden bridge that spanned a 285 ft gorge, wow.  Arrived at the end of the road and parked the trucks at a super cool glacier tour guide "shack."  The guy was super nice and walked the footbridge over to McCarthy.  Took the shuttle for $5 into Kennicutt.  Historical mining town in the middle of NOWHERE!

Kennicott, Alaska

 They even had a food truck that has been written up for their great food...indeed it was.  

Darn good food

Root Glacier

Bald Eagle - difficult to take pic

From Kennicutt we hiked 5 miles to the Root Glacier. Totally COOL day in every way.

Riding the little shuttle back to McCarthy we passed a Momma Bear and her cub.  They were in no hurry to leave the road, well at least the baby. We drove back and decided to stop at some random, out of the way, Coffee shack...Really in the middle of nowhere. Met the nicest couple that live at 3 mile lake on the McCarthy Road.  Not many neighbors, other than moose and bears.  They live here year round, coffee shop only open in the summer as the road is impassable.  Takes her 7 1/2 to go grocery shopping..she goes every 2 months.  Generators are their only source of power....use it for propane freezers, refrigerators, lights.  They were so cool and maybe in their early 30's??
This has been one of my highlights of the trip so far.....the people you meet.